Basic Assumptions – Must read

Classroom Repairing Classroom Priming Classroom Painting Classroom Finishing

From start to finish, a guide on basics that must be covered when repairing and painting.

PPG Industries Automotive Refinish group makes these assumptions based on accepted industry practices,
our knowledge, past experience and feedback from our employees and customers. These assumptions are
intended to be used by collision repairers for reference and support documentation to promote a better
understanding of the refinishing process to their customers.


KOVAX Imperection Kit – System for removing imperfections

Classroom Finishing
This kit contains everything a bodyshop requires to successfully carry out a small repair or imperfection on a panel. Unlike others in the market the Kovax system is used completely dry, making it a lot quicker, cleaner and easier to use


 Purchase here:


Sanding Advice:

1) Depending on the size of the imperfection, you start with Tolecut Pink. Then further reducing the sanding scratches with Tolecut green, followed by Tolecut black.

2) For a perfect end result and minimal polishing time, we advice to finish with Buflex Dry Black after Tolecut and to use the Kovax Polishing System for the entire polish process. If it is a large imperfection, it may be preferable to use Yellow Film (1500) 35mm prior to Tolecut


The kit contains:


Kit content (part no. 999-8804):

100 pcs. P1500 Yellow Film 35mm (881-1500)

25 sheets P2000 Tolecut 1/8 cut pink (191-1523)
25 sheets P2500 Tolecut 1/8 cut green (191-1522)

25 sheets P3000 Tolecut 1/8 cut black (191-1521)

25 sheets P3000 Buflex Dry black (191-1531)

1 pad for Buflex Dry sheets (971-0060)

2 double finger pads for Yellow Film 35mm (971-0023)

2 Toleblocks for Tolecut 1/8 cut (971-0047) + 1 FREE micro fibre cloth


Sanding best practice

Classroom Finishing

The following techniques can be applied when using a de-nibbing process for removal of defects such as dirt inclusions, fish eyes, orange peel, dry spray, etc on freshly applied paint:




-Always complete a ‘thumb’ print test before sanding to ensure the paint is fully cured.


-For smaller defects- a de-nibbing block and rose is ideal (1042000)- apply water, then use in a back and fourth motion then wipe any excess dust off before polishing.


-With multiple dirt inclusions or heavy orange peel- if a D.A sander is required, try to use dust extraction when sanding where possible.  This will help to eliminate dust which can contribute to ‘ balling’ on the disc and’ pig tailing’.


-Farecla  G-Sand 1500 abrasives (1151500) followed by Farecla P3000 (GS3101) are recommended when flatting complete panels.


-If you have concerns about ‘breaking through’ the paint on suages, edges and contours, use a fine line or surface protection tape to avoid.


-Use a 2.4 mm orbit when D.A sanding to ensure even scratch pattern.


-Regularly clean the abrasive disc using a microfiber cloth (Every 10 seconds) this will help to eliminate ‘pig tailing’ and rogue scratches.


-Use an interface pad to avoid ‘rogue scratches’ and ensure it’s lined up correctly.


-If using ‘wet and dry’ to remove defects, use a block when possible and remember to soak the abrasive paper in water for 20 minutes before use.


Pig Tailing = rogue scratches from sanding in the paint caused by grit, dust, or other foreign particles under the abrasive disc and also poor sanding technique, incorrect D.A orbit.

Balling = paint build up on the abrasive disc due to not keeping the disc clean or using dust extraction.